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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.